Model Deja Vigil adds depth to our medallion fashion photo shoot, featuring the work of Sean Sato, a photographer from Modesto, CA, and Ken Fowkes, a photo enthusiast from Mountain View, CA. Ken created the medallion from a photo of a single dried oak leaf. The resulting image was then transferred onto fabric to produce the ball cap and leggings that Deja is wearing.
The exuberance that Deja portrays in front of Ken's medallion is so infectious, it epitomizes the essence of being 'Over The Moon' for me. She brings her rich personality to Ken's medallion, giving it a voice and a story. My fashion helps to tie the knot, the icing on the cake so to speak.
We gave the shoot the name of 'Turning Over a New Leaf' to exemplify the process of starting over. For Ken, starting over meant reforming his simple leaf image into a magnificent medallion. For Slow Fashion Designer and sister Darcy, starting over is a core value of her design philosophy, working with discarded clothing and accessories to create new fashion.
The fashion industry is in dire straits today as the second biggest polluting industry in the world, after oil. It is urgent that designers and consumers worldwide pursue conscientious strategies to reform this industry from the top down and the bottom up. Our effort in producing Turning Over a New Leaf https://www.darcycouture.com/medallion/) was to urge you to tackle this goal with creativity and enthusiasm!
Vigilant Sutherlin is a print and runway model who has blessed the stages of Bay Area fashion shows and California photography studios for years. She astounds her audiences so consistently, she has become one of the most sought after models in Northern California. Her talent for theater is breathtaking, and her photographic ambiance remarkable; the camera loves her.
Vigilant was part of a recent design team effort 'Turning Over a New Leaf', a project featuring the photographic art work of Ken Fowkes, and captured by Modesto Fashion Photographer Sean Sato. In this picture, Vigilant is wearing a cap made from fabric featuring Ken's art medallion, which he created from an image of a dried oak leaf. The medallion is also pictured behind her, framing her portrait.
'Turning Over a New Leaf' exemplifies what can be created from the discarded, which is what the project designer and stylist believes is a lesson the fashion industry should learn from. Fast Fashion is now the second biggest polluting industry in the world today over oil. Slow Fashion designer Darcy Fowkes would like the fashion industry to see the potential of creating beautiful wearables with discarded clothing and accessories, and zero waste byproducts.
Considering the waste of fabric scraps alone, zero waste designing is becoming more and more strategic in the Slow Fashion movement in the United States. In New York City, if 10% or more of your commercial waste is textile material, you are required to recycle it. This law has produced a secondary market of designers using these remnants in their designs. One such example is Leanne Marshall. You can see an amazing video of her wedding dress designs at https://www.facebook.com/rackednational/videos/1906089999421183/.
Leanne gets her scraps from Fabscraps, a company dedicated to the middleman business this city law has produced, collecting this waste and redistributing it
creatively (http://fabscrap.org). In the Bay Area, Fabmo is stepping up to this plate. This non profit organization (http://www.fabmo.org) collects seasonal waste from design businesses
all over the Bay Area, bringing exquisite textiles, wallpapers, tiles, leathers, trims, etc. to local makers, and in the
process, diverts about 70 tons/year from landfill! Most of these samples are swatches, so designers have to think small (and accessorize) with these
But zero based designing is not just about figuring out what to do with someone else's scraps. The most efficient design strategy is not to create scraps in the first place. The
vest that Stormy is wearing in this picture is a scrap of leather left over from a custom architecture utility belt. The only scraps discarded from this hide were the circles cut out for
Photography can add excitement and allure to many subjects. As an up-cycled designer, I have engaged with professional photographers as much as possible to position my craft in the most favorable light. But using professionals is not always possible or affordable, so using DIY options can be an excellent alternative. In this picture, I photographed my up-cycled ensemble on a mannequin, and then erased the background in Photoshop. Using publicly available stock photo sites, I found a suitable photo to drop my picture into! The results, I think, are better than the parts!
First, start by noting the following measurements on a piece of paper:
You will need two t-shirts that are wider than the circumference of the top of your thy, measured from under arm to underarm, across the width of the t-shirt. One will be your pattern, the other your sample garment.
Cut off the top of the pattern tee at a slight angle, directly under (and as close as possible to) the neckline of the tee. You want this angle to be an inch or two higher at the end of the cut than when you started (or more, depending on how much room you need in the rear). Now cut the width of the t-shirt to your thy measurement + seam allowance. Fold the t-shirt in half, matching side seams, with shortest angle on top, and smoothing so that there are no hidden folds. Using your crotch measurement from the shortest angle of the 'waist' cut, cut through the four layers of the tee, creating a shallow curve and straighten out toward the top. You will create a deeper curve for the back using the front crotch as a guide, so keep this curve shallow to begin with. You can cut deeper cuts as you adjust, but you cannot add to fabric already cut.
To guide you for the angle you need for the back of the pants, unfold the tee and measure half your waist (30" waist is 15") from the front crotch cut and place a pin. Stretch this to make sure the waist will fit over your hips (has to stretch to 20" + seam allowance for 40" hips). This is your guideline for the back crotch curve (and for adjusting the front curve). Your back crotch curve will be deeper and curved at an able that ends in a straight angle at the back top of waist. This curve will depend on your body type. If you carry more weight in your waist than your seat, the curve will be shallower than if this is reversed. This is the 'wiggle room' you will need to adjust as you perfect your pattern.
You should baste stitch your pattern together to see how close you are before cutting out your sample garment. Sew right sides of front and back crotch seams together, then sew inseams front to back, right sides together (there are no side seams in this design). Make adjustments, etc., including tailoring inseam and bottom/length of your pant to your liking. When cutting the inseam, fold in half matching crotches, and cut all 4 pieces together.
Cut a piece of elastic for the waistband that is smaller than the waist of the garment (and comfortable), and fold into the top of your sample garment, matching front/back and side seams of garment and elastic. Zig zag in place! Hem bottom of pants, or leave raw. Enjoy!
Recycled, Up Cycled, Re-Purposed Clothing Design: A Slow Fashion Movement
Fast fashion, while its economic value is powerful, has left in its wake such an environmental wasteland, that advocates have been for many years actively rallying around and promoting solutions to this problem. One of the early pioneers in this movement was Kate Fletcher, who, eight years ago in 2007, then a member of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion, UK, coined the term Slow Fashion. Originally, Slow Fashion only recognized handmade clothing; later advocating fair wages, lower carbon footprints, and encouraging zero waste. But as the movement has expanded over the years, it has embraced countless interpretations of eco-friendly design methodologies, including recycled, up cycled, and re-purposed clothing design.
Fashion, now a throwaway commodity in almost every country around the world, has created mountains of waste that now have to be addressed and managed. Recycle, up cycle, re-purpose design methodologies are emerging design solutions. Why buy new fabrics that require precious resources to produce when we have more waste products than we know what to do with?
With this in mind, Rachael Boyd helped me illustrate this design practice by modeling an upcycled t-shirt over a pair of re-purposed t-shirt pants. The top was re-fashioned from a man's t-shirt, sculpting cap sleeves and a heart shaped neckline for a more feminine look; the pants cut and remade from another t-shirt. The colors and design are complimentary, giving this ensemble a unique look that you cannot buy from a department store!!
Fall is the season to add a little complexity to your daily attire. As the weather and colors turn, let your wardrobe follow suit. Have plenty of coordinated
'layers' to pick from. Fall is the season to pair an unlikely color with two compatible ones, such as a plum hoodie over a rust top paired with olive jeans.
I recommend hanging all your 'fall' clothes together, so the temperature of the day and style of a particular 'activity' can orchestrate what a particular ensemble
should look like. Make sure to include your hats and scarves, as these are essential fall accessories! And can 'make' or 'break' an outfit.
Another wardrobe tool I use are the hangers designed for multiple pairs of pants. Instead of a different pair of pants on each arm, I will use those hanger arms for all my clothing that is suitable for a range of weather in a particular colorway. This way, I don't have to go looking in drawers or through closets for any particular item, they are all grouped together.